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It's a fine grit around 180 to 240. I hope this helps 👍

Thanks 👍

Thanks thanks for your comment 😊 glad you liked the video 👍

Thanks for your comment Andrew I really appreciate it 😁 thanks for watching 👍

Glad you have found something that works for you 👍😁 I picked up the grinder in the video for £15 or roughly £18 from gumtree (i think it's called Craig's list in the USA) it's worth keeping an eye out for second hand stuff as it can safe you a bunch of money 👍 I hope you have a great day 😁

Not to mention yourself turning without any dust mask

@@intrepidshedman3309 thanks for your comment, you make an excellent point. I normally wear a respirator while turning but didn't use to while filming. I now use a 3M versarflow respirator, which I wear for all my turning and have started to do voice overs instead of talking on the video for the latest videos I've filmed. I hope you have a great evening 👍

Thanks for your comment I really appreciate it 😁 I hope you have a great day 👍

Thanks for your comment Steve, I really appreciate it 😁 I'm glad the video was helpful 👍

Thanks for your question it's a great one, I think carbide tools have their place for certain tasks and situations. I only tend to use them when I'm creating the inside of hollow forms. I love using traditional tools and the challenge of developing the skills to use them proficiently, it's certainly a big learning curve and it's far easier to learn to use traditional tools with a tutor or some professional lessons but once mastered they can be far quicker to use than carbide tools and give you a nicer finish. But ultimately use whatever you feel more confident with and you feel is safest to use. if the piece is sanded and finished well the end user would find it hard to tell what tool has been used to turn it. I think this would be a good video topic in the future 😁 I hope you have lots of fun turning 👍

Thanks for your comment I really appreciate it 😁 commercial sharpening jigs/ brands I have used and I would recommend, would be the wolverine system by one-way, the woodcut sharpening system, Tormek and sorby pro edge. There are lots of off brand versions of these systems also available. If you are in the UK Simon Hope -Hope tools has some brilliant grinders and sharpening jigs available. I think this topic would be a great video to explore in the future, going through the pros and cons of each system 👍 thanks for the idea 💡

Thanks for your kind words I really appreciate it 😁 I hope you have lots of fun turning 👍

Thanks for your comment I really appreciate it 😁 what a beautiful part of the world you live in 👍 thanks for watching, all the best Tom

Thanks for your comment, I really appreciate it 😁 thanks for watching 👍

Yeah it did develop some cracks, due to the pith being left in, the bark has stayed on and has not cracked. You can see pictures of the piece years later on my Instagram page 👍

The blank sizes are around 17mm, 17mm square around 120mm long, I hope this helps 👍

Thanks for your comment sounds like a good idea 💡 thanks for sharing 👍

The pen kits used in the video are called slimline pen kits. I hope this helps 😁

Yes, I know that’s what they’re called…so why turn it to an unsightly hourglass shape? That’s the opposite of slimline.

@@brendangallagher732 thanks for your opinion, in my experience that hourglass shaped sells twice as much at craft fairs and art markets than the slim shape which I also turn, I've sold loads of these over the years, that's the reason I make them like this 😁 I'm not saying everyone should make them this way it has just been successful for me. I hope you have a great day 👍

It’s all a matter of taste, I suppose. I’m pleased that you sell well, but my own experience is that people didn’t really go for that shape - ergonomically not very comfortable, they tell me. Slimlines are a bit of a problem I think, in that by their nature there’s not a lot of real estate for showing off interesting figuring, so exaggerated shapes can be tempting. Just my four penn’rth! All the best!

Thanks Michael, as wood is porous the sanding sealer helps fill some of the porous areas like the end grain cells of the wood, after it has set and been sanded back this provides a better surface to apply certain finishes as they do not absorb as much into the cells of the wood which will give you a more even looking finish across the side grain and end grain when light is refracted off the piece 👍I hope that makes sense and is helpful for you 😁

@@thewelshwoodman649 very thanks very much appreciate it so kinda like on end grain it's gonna take load more finish than say face or side grain so your helping close them up. Get it. Hopefully you've new video coming soon and also u asked in a video if people would be interested turning a mallet. Id like see that one. Hope you're well 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿👍

Thanks Bob I really appreciate your comment 😁 thanks for watching 👍

Thanks Michael, I hope you are well. I've been keeping busy with work and looking after my little boy, so not had a lot of time in the workshop lately. I have a few videos planned so looking forward to getting down in the workshop to film them :-)

@@thewelshwoodman649 awesome m8 can't wait for them. 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿👍

Thanks for your comment William I really appreciate it 😁

Thank you so much for your comment Gavin, I'm glad to hear you have taken up woodturning as a hobby. I sell my pens £15 + at markets, again the price depending on the cost of the kits and timber used, I hope this helps give you a ballpark to start with. Best off luck at your markets I hope they sell well.

@@thewelshwoodman649 thanks for the reply. |I'll use your info.

Thanks Christopher I really appreciate your comment 👍 thanks for watching 😁

Thanks for your comment Paul, i really appreciate it, glad the video was helpful.

Thank you so much for your comment Vince, I'm really glad the videos were useful to and your wife. I hope you have many happy hours of turning together 😁 all the best Tom

Thanks for your comment Debbie I really appreciate it 😊 I hope you have a lovely day. Thanks for watching.

Thanks for your comment I really appreciate it, I'm hoping to make more videos in the future 😁 I hope you have a lovely day 👍

Thanks for your comment 😊 went for the Hollywood vikings style 👍

Thank you Richard, glad you liked the video 😁 thanks for watching 👍

Thanks for your comment Malcolm I really appreciate it 😁 thanks for watching 👍

Thanks for your comment I really appreciate it 😁 thanks for watching 👍

Thanks for your comment Nicholas, I really appreciate it, I'm glad the video was useful 😁

Very usefulseeing as I have just been given some laburnum and I have a huge lump of yew if ever you're desperate enough to visit England. I can't drive unfortunately but we do visit friends in Knighton if you're aywhere near. 😊

Thanks Michael, I hope to film a beginner series of videos at some point 👍 I hope you have many happy hours of turning and learning on your new lathe 😁

@@thewelshwoodman649 I'll get there eventually not had lot time on it yet. Did try bowl other day that didn't go well. Can u explain holding with the worm screw a got with the Chuck am going through the labrunm crothch bowl u used it in the now but was bit confused. Do u pre drill then use it in place the face plate?? Ps I ended up going with lumberjacks lathe pretty much identical to the charnwood u used in the palm video. 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿👍

@@michaelwillson6847 with wormwood screws you predrill a hole in the blank normally in the part that will be hollowed out/turned away in the bowl. The hole size will be determined by the size of the wormwood screws (normally the diameter on the inside of the threads) and the depth of the screw. Normally they fit in the chuck then you lock the headstock and rotate the piece on with the lathe off, the blank should be touching the face of the jaws for a strong hold. I hope this makes sense and helps 👍

@@thewelshwoodman649 absaloutley that helps a also saw in your video because you had the hole that would of helped with turning away. I struggled big time with first bowl. Now forgive me for asking silly question but is there a set standard thickess for a blank to get a bowl out of?? I tried to do one with arround 70mm thickess on dry oak didn't go well.

@@michaelwillson6847 You can turn any thickness bowl, if you can start off with green wood as it's easier to turn especially compared to seasoned oak 👍

Careful using that power Stan 😉

Sssshh... don't tell anyone ;) @@thewelshwoodman649

Thanks for your comment Steve, I'm glad you liked the video 😁 thanks for watching 👍

@@thewelshwoodman649for this past Christmas, I made about 70 pens for family and friends. The wood I used was a variety which included some pallet wood which I don't know the species. Other wood was from my property (dried Black Cherry, Poplar, Spalted Maple, and Privet) and then from previous wood projects (Padauk, Walnut, Pecan, and Purple Heart). I always enjoy seeing their reactions when they receive these types of gifts. Lots of fun for sure!

@@steveparham1515 That's great to hear Steve, it sounds like you have been busy 😁all the best Tom

Thanks for your comment Stan it made me smile 😁 I hope you have lots of fun turning 😁 Thanks for watching 👍

@@thewelshwoodman649 I think Aberdeenshire is safe for the next week. I attached a brush thingy (a technical term) to my Dremel , and when I cranked her up it took flight and is probably in Denmark by now. Things went much more smoothly with a teeny, tiny-headed round drill bit. Thank god I've always got toilet paper at hand... :D

That sounds cool, it would be interesting to see how it turns out 😁 thanks for watching 👍

The pen mandrels are around £20-£50 depending on the brand, you just have to try and find one that matches the morse taper of your lathe :-) I hope this helps.